martes, 10 de noviembre de 2009

Visitas de comé a El Bosque (cádiz)

El sábado día 7 también madrugamos: el autobús de Compuertas S.L. nos recogió a las 8,15. Estrenamos vaqueros –la poca costumbre-, sacamos las zapatillas de su caja y la cámara digital de la “Semana Fantástica” y un bloc de propaganda para apuntarlo todo. ¡Allá vamos!.

En el autobús mis amigos de Tubal me ponen al día de las últimas noticias gastronómicas. En una hora llegamos a El Bosque, hoy medio gris y medio soleado; es una localidad limpia, presentable, sin pintadas ni ruidos. La Venta Julián nos espera con el desayuno comentado por Pepe Monforte (La Alacena), monitor apasionado del buen saber comer: pan de mollete con aceite, zurrapa de lomo blanco o manteca colorá y el aceite Algodoliva; todo ello en mesita redonda con sillas de enea y amigos para siempre.

Segunda estación: visita al Molino de Abajo. Un antiguo complejo molinero de agua (con caudal procedente del río Majaceite corriendo hacia el pantano de Los Hurones), íntegra y modélicamente rehabilitado. Amasadora antigua, refinadora, horno industrial y toda una suerte de muebles y aperos antiguos. La piedra de molino actual –de 1300 kg- llega en 1928 de Francia, es más duradera (dos meses) que la piedra caliza de la comarca. Muchas cosas he aprendido hoy sobre el trigo y la harina. La visita incluye hacer pan: descargar la harina, separar el salvado y cargar la amasadora eléctrica, que en algo menos de veinte minutos será masa. Una bolita para cada uno, y a darle la forma deseada. Nosotros, muy clásicos, una pieza con dos cortes superiores. Los anfitriones, padre e hijo, profesionales de la atención turística, recuerdan que el pan antes se repartía en burro. Luego pasará por dos hornos a 20 y 200 grados respectivamente. Dos términos: afrecho y acemite (salvado, harina).

De allí a la fábrica de quesos El Bosqueño, artesanal y pionera en la industria quesera de la provincia gaditana desde 1986, independizada en 2003 por los hermanos Gago. Tanques de acero inoxidable impolutos, depósitos con cambios de temperatura y moldes queseros. Nos enseñan los almacenes de curación. Terminamos con una degustación de quesos al aire libre con vinito dulce y buen rollito. El Bosqueño lleva numerosos premios nacionales e internacionales. Su materia prima es la leche de la cabra Payoya, recogida limpia, recién ordeñada; Otros la llevan, previamente conservada a 3º de un día para otro. Un complejo proceso de pasteurización limpia la leche y mata las bacterias patógenas. El curado de un queso oscila entre 20 días y dos años. Los quesos salen sobre todo al mercado español, en las provincias de Cádiz, Sevilla y Málaga, y a tiendas de toda España. Un orgullo para la provincia.

Se nos fue la hora del parque botánico de El Bosque, así que toca almorzar, a esto hemos venido: en la Venta El Tabanco, construida sobre la antigua posada y una referencia de la cocina serrana. Chorizo al vino tinto con butifarra, aceitunas aliñadas en casa, una cerveza fresquísima y un tinto más que aceptable fueron los prolegómenos. De allí, ya en la mesa, magnífica chacina bosqueña (sobre todo la caña de lomo, es excelente), todo de Chacinas Olmedo, años 50, artesanal; tabla de quesos de El Bosqueño, con uvas para descansar en cada degustación. La tabla contenía: queso cremoso de cabra Payoya, queso de cabra Payoya emborrao al pimentón, queso de oveja grazalemeña emborrao al aceite y queso de oveja añejo de 18 meses de curación emborrao (éste estaba pà matarse); llega una ensalada de verduras con queso fresco (1) y orégano, riquísima, y varios guisos de carne como la cabeza de lomo mechada, muy jugosa o la carrillada (2). El último, lengua estofada (3), acaba con mis prejuicios carniceros de cerdo, porque fue lo mejor de todo. El pimentón empleado, de La Vera. Aquí saben.

Y para rematar, dulces artesanos de la pastelería Sandra, que dirige Víctor, un bosqueño que vivió en Menorca 18 años antes de regresar a su tierra. Sus dulces, estupendos, y lo mejor, una ensaimada de regalo. Probamos pestiño de boniato, piñonate serrano, cocada de fruta y dulce balear de almendra y tarta de fruta fresca.

No podemos irnos de El Bosque sin hablar de su criadero de truchas, existente desde hace 30 años. Dos especies crecen en el lugar: la común (autóctona) y la arcoíris, introducida a posteriori.

El Bosque como tal tiene una antigüedad de dos siglos. Antes se llamaba Marchenilla, y era un lugar de caza mayor al servicio de los duques de Arcos. Tiene unos 2000 habitantes y vive fundamentalmente del turismo. Sus lugareños dicen que allí se vive muy bien, pero que faltan servicios. Sus referencias comerciales son Jerez, San Fernando y Sevilla.

Un éxito de viaje. La sierra de Cádiz se nos abrió limpia y silenciosa y nos traemos reserva de aire puro. Seguimos teniendo curiosidad por conocer y eso nos hace más jóvenes. Venían niños pero no nos hemos enterado.

Curiosidades:

(1) La ensalada lleva: verduras como lechuga y tomate, queso fresco, aceite de oliva, ajo, orégano y un chorreón de oloroso.
(2) la carrillada de cerdo llevaba ajo, cebolla, pimiento, vino tinto y coñac, y por último el caldo del puchero para espesar.
(3) la lengua de cerdo está cocida con vino blanco, y el resto como la carrillada.


(Un post muy largo, ya lo sé, pero es que no tiene desperdicio)

217 comentarios:

1 – 200 de 217   Más reciente›   El más reciente»
Zerogluten dijo...

Tu lo has dicho, no tiene desperdicio alguno. Tenemos una sierra envidiable, llena de buena gente y maravillosa gastronomía.
Me gusta mucho tus ganas de aprender, porque luego compartes y eso nos hace aprender a todos. Gracias.
Muchos besos sin gluten.

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Hola Zerogluten. Hasta ahora no he conocido El Bosque y me encantó su belleza y disposición.
En cuanto a la gastronomía, magnífica. Saludos

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